July 27, Day 35: The Worst Things About El Salvador

I have been in El Salvador for over a month now and I have about half a month to go. Granted, the best days I have spent here have been some of the best days of my life, but the same applies for the worst and most boring days. Here are the top five things I have disliked about my time here in El Salvador.

5. Mosquitos: Odds are, if I die in El Salvador, it will be from a mosquito bite. That isn't a joke either; I've been bitten by dozens of these jerks, maybe even hundreds, regardless of whether I am using repellent or not. The layout of Salvadorian houses always has an open space that bugs and even birds can get in through. I have no clue why; a tree is able to grow there, but for someone from the States, it is both unnecessary and often times annoying. I've stopped seeing the point of even attempting to defend myself; if one of these bugs is carrying a deadly disease, I'm going to be screwed, and my apathy won't even allow me to put up a fight.

4. Tortillas, vegetables, beans, and soup: If you eat three meals a day in El Salvador, you can expect to be offered most of these foods, as well as rice and plantains. I have stopped eating tortillas altogether (which are offered every meal) because although I like flour tortillas in the States, I haven't enjoyed any tortillas I have had here. I try to eat the others because my pickiness is unreasonable, but the simple fact is I am used to a far different diet than the people here. I don't crave fast food or sweets near as much now as when I first came here, but I miss meat so badly it isn't even funny. I devour every last bit at every chance I get because in the US, meat is always the "main course" for lunch and dinner, sometimes even breakfast, and now I'm lucky just to be able to eat it during one meal a day.

3. Noise: I expect this is more the result of being in a city than being in a foreign country, but the amount of noise here drives me insane. Everyone unnecessarily honks their horns in traffic, cars rev up loudly past Gerardo's house, jerks are always ringing bells and screaming in public, trying to push their wares on local civilians (and it works often enough too). Even my headphones can't block out these irritating sounds, and God knows I've tried.

2. Traffic: For someone who can drive, there is always something to potentially do. Even though I hated driving in the States, I never failed to recognize that joyous fact. Even a bicycle leaves me with options. Without a car and the ability to drive in this ridiculous traffic, my options are completely limited to the whims and schedules of Gerardo, Gaby, Connie, and their family members. Even when they are up for something, I still feel sure that the trip will result in a wreck because everyone on the road is a reckless driver.

1. Heat/Humidity: Summers in the States are bad enough, usually reaching temperatures in the 90s or even 100s, but at least there are air conditioners, ceiling fans, nearby places to swim for free, etc. On a boring day in the States, I sit by an air conditioner and watch television. On a boring day here, I sit in front of my laptop wishing it to be night time so I can shower and fall asleep. If it wasn't for my friend Stephanie Tillman (whom I promised an honorable mention in this blog post), that's exactly what I would be doing right now. Gerardo has a television, but I can't even watch it right now, not because it's in Spanish or because there are so few channels, but because the process of doing that in this kind of heat literally makes me feel like throwing up. Same goes with reading books or attempting to play games online. My mind is dead, physical activities are limited both indoors and outdoors, and my very existence is as slow as it's ever been.

This blog post was probably unpleasant to read, but I know that for me personally, it will be a great reminder when I am back home at how much there actually is to do when I say "There's nothing to do today." Even though I wrote this post solely because of the bitterness I feel in experiencing all of these nuisances, there have still been some really amazing times here that I look forward to writing more about. For now, I have to be patient and wait...a royal pain.

One.

July 25, Day 33: Las cervezas, los vinos, y el ron

Like many people in the US, Salvadorians like to kick back and enjoy an alcoholic beverage every now and then. Unlike in the US, however, I have not seen many instances of substance abuse here (which led me to question the age of drinking and consent in the US a few posts back). I have never had a problem with the idea of drinking, but I have had a problem with alcoholism. People that party constantly, people that drink a case a day when they have a family to support, and people who are bumming around on the streets but still able to afford alcohol are the kind of people that infuriate me. Perhaps it is because I have seen so many of these people in the States that I have never even been tempted to drink there.

Nah, my reason isn't so noble; I simply have an overinflated ego and am in the middle of a game. The objective: to see how many countries I can drink in before I drink in the States. Last summer in Italy was the first time I ever tried alcohol: an Italian liquor while I was in Sorrento called Limoncello. It was truly disgusting to me, like extremely carbonated lemonade. Still, my motto when it comes to food and drink is "I will try anything at least once." I like to believe that mantra of mine justifies my pickiness. So when I was offered the Brazilian beer Brahva after a day or so here, I jumped right into the Salvadorian culture. The main drinks I have had since I have been here are the Salvadorian beers Pilsener and Golden  (and they seem to be the most popular as well). It is probably because my tastes are unrefined, but they all taste very similar to me, though not necessarily in a bad way. That also goes for the Mexican beer Corona Extra which I tried despite being teased that it was a drink for women and children (it was something new that I always hear about). I was disappointed to discover that vino tinto (red whine) tasted even worse to me than the beer did, but I actually found a few beverages that I enjoy. White wine (vino blanco) and an unknown type of rum I had at Gerardo's surprise party with Gaby both tasted really good despite the familiar aftertaste I have come to associate with alcohol.


It is interesting how cracking a bottle open here projects a completely different vibe than in Arkansas. Here, when the bottles come out, there is immediately the promise of an enjoyable long meal with laughter and chatter. It will end with proper disposal of the bottles and some new memories. There, drinking usually leads to a lot of disgusting cans polluting the "Natural State," forgotten memories as the result of inebriated minds, and irresponsible decisions. Granted, these are all stereotypes, but they are stereotypes that my mind has created based on the type of people and environment I have witnessed. When I return to Arkansas, I will continue to abstain from drinking alcohol, not only to prolong my egotistical game, nor because I give a damn about the drinking laws, but because I am happy without it and cannot imagine finding there what I find here. There's just something about drinking in the company of friendship that a gang of reckless underage college students eager to stick it to the man cannot replicate, and with that said, I won't even try. Too many other things that I would much rather do and devote my time to, but I sincerely hope that I can return to El Salvador in the near future and relive this nostalgia.

One.

July 23, Day 31: La Gallina India

Today promised to be a slow day so Gerardo and I went to the gym for the first time in a while to work out. It turned out that Mr. Worldwide also goes there and was working out as we arrived, much to all of our surprise. After we finished biceps and triceps, we went out to eat at a restaurant called "La Gallina India de Doña Marta" or "The Indian Hen of Madam Marta." Gerardo's food suggestions have never steered me wrong before so at his and Rodrigo's prodding, I ordered the chicken which was supposedly the restaurant's specialty. It most definitely was. Each bone was scraped clean and the tender meat was consumed in its entirety. Apparently, the chickens raised by the restaurant only consumed natural food (for example, worms rather than genetically modified food) so they possessed a better and more natural taste. I could definitely tell; it tasted well-seasoned to me but apparently nothing was added except salt. The soup wasn't too bad either, but because I am not a huge fan of vegetables, it was just so-so to me.

Even though I really enjoyed the food, that wasn't really the reason for today's post. What really got to me is I think I finally saw part of impoverished El Salvador. The people I have met and enjoyed hanging out with have been largely well off, so although I have come into contact with many different people, my perspective is still narrowed down to middle class and higher. There was a little boy at the restaurant who I could not understand that I was later told was a child beggar. He hung around us for most of the meal and tried to go with us when we left. I wasn't sure if he was serious or just being mischievous; perhaps he was the kid of one of the people in the area, but my eyes have been opened several ways today. On the way to the gym earlier, we passed by a filthy old man taking a nap in the middle of the sidewalk. I know there are homeless people in the States, but I have never come across someone who did not at least attempt to get money or food from sympathetic pedestrians. I think many fortunate people find it awkward trying to dodge the advances of beggars, but I honestly think I found his apathy even more disturbing. The experiences of today also bring back memories of passing by children and adults alike that were missing limbs. In this tiny country, there is so many people with so many different stories and circumstances. I don't think I could put myself in the shoes of a crippled or homeless child anymore than my friends can know what it is like to lose a family. I don't consider today a bad experience; it was simply eye-opening.

After lunch, we went back to Gerardo's house and just hung out for a while. I was able to rekindle Gerardo's interest in chess and we played about six or seven games tonight. I haven't abandoned my goal of defeating Ernesto; on the contrary, I've been playing with him, Gaby, and now Gerardo quite a bit. There have been a few close games that dwindled down to nothing but our pawns and our kings, but somehow, he always finds a way to come back. I'll get him soon, and when I do, it'll be a blog post, guaranteed!

One.

 

 

July 21, Day 29: Fiestas Julias

I've been spending a lot of time with Gaby lately and last night, her family invited me to join them to a festival in Santa Ana. I am only now figuring out what the festival was about. Gerardo didn't really have a name for it, but a convenient web page refers to it as "Fiestas Julias," or "July Parties." The month of July is devoted to honoring Anne, the patron saint of Santa Ana. There are parades, parties, masses, street events, community events, and other forms of cultural entertainment that stirs up the tourism industry. Though I had noticed long ago that most (if not all) of the cities within El Salvador had San or Santa in the name, my superior intellect did not make the connection with saints. Furthermore, I could not have imagined that anything was done annually to honor said saints. Next month is supposed to be "Festival de El Salvador," also known as "Fiestas Agostinas." I hope to be able to experience that as well...but there's no telling.


Besides myself, our group today consisted of Gaby, two of her older brothers, her younger sister, her parents, and a former karate mentor. We ultimately all met up at her brother's house after her parents came to help us jump start the vehicle we were in (yes, MORE car problems). From there, we went to what I assume was downtown Santa Ana. There were hundreds of people out and about, arguing with merchants and greedily eyeing food purveyors. The gathering point was at a beautiful cathedral, which can be seen on the left. Despite the back being "unfinished," the entire building was pretty remarkable...

We walked around the cathedral for a little while, noticing tourists darting in and out of the mass. Very few people in the building came off feeling like regulars, though there were quite a few devout Christians of admirable faith, lighting candles and praying before statues of Anne and Jesus. We paid a moment of respect before leaving and walking around town for a bit. It was only after witnessing the religious activity indoors that I noticed how much religious paraphernalia was being sold outdoors. There was food and clothes of a less pious nature of course, but the majority of the merchandise was focused on the religious celebration at hand. Pretty interesting stuff...

After we left the cathedral, we drove to what a gringo can only describe as a fairground. It largely felt like a farmers' showcasing, and I was instantly reminded of Arkansas fairs as we petted our way through horses, cows, and bulls. Gaby's brother Alejandro seemed particularly enthusiastic with this, and went after every horse that had not secluded itself in a corner to munch on straw. There was also a horse named James Blond...turns out Salvadorians have a sense of humor that even gringos can appreciate!


The petting zoo (if you want to call it that) was not all that reminded me of Arkansas. There were grills with meat smoking on top, beer advertisements everywhere, and a potential rodeo that ended up getting cancelled due to the later rain we experienced. We sought protection from the hot sun in a very red tent; that was probably a bad idea, but everyone was psyched to watch El Salvador play football against the United States (lost 5-1). The entire tent was enthusiastic, echoing with the beloved sense of Salvadorian hospitality and nationalism that I have come to enjoy. Strangers were swapping cigarettes and eagerly discussing the game in which everyone simultaneously cheered on a good play by El Salvador and groaned on the States' success (and being the sir I am, I dissented).

In actuality, I guess not a lot happened today, but I had another slice of this culture I have thrown myself into, and I always consider that a good thing. After eating, we went to check out the rodeo, but when it began thundering, we got stepping pretty quickly. I got to spend time with Gaby and the people who influenced her, which was pretty cool. Juan (the karate mentor) reminds me a lot of Mario; both have a certain charisma and project a feeling of hospitality that is fun to be around. Alejandro was a very surprising character; he spent most of his life in the States (Reno and somewhere in Georgia) so he spoke even better English than many of the internationals, contrary to my expectations of being able to communicate solely with Gaby today. He wants to hang out more while I am around, so hopefully we will get to play tennis or basketball in the near future. I am making every effort to avoid wasting my time, and I like to think that Gaby is doing a pretty good job with that. Next time I go to her house, I think Juan wants to take me and her to downtown San Salvador which has a notorious reputation but he claims is quite tame. Regardless of what holds true, I am looking forward to it!

One.

 

 

July 17, Day 25: The Little Things Pt. 2

It's time for another segment of The Little Things! More differences between my culture and Gerardo's have become evident to me, so here's what I've learned (or remembered).

• Seasons - In the US, there is a winter, spring, summer, and fall. In Spanish, the exact translations for these would be invierno, primavera, verano, and otoño. I had been under the impression that all four of these seasons existed in El Salvador, but I was mistaken. Here, there is only invierno and verano, and rather than translating to winter and summer, it is more accurate to say that they translate to "rainy season" and "dry season." Right now, we are in the middle of the "rainy season" and we have been experiencing intense tropical storms nearly every day, fortunately usually during the night. That means that the summer I left behind in the US has been replaced by what is normally translated in Spanish as winter!
• Music - Obviously, in a Spanish speaking country, there is a much greater popularity with Spanish music. What surprised me, however, is how frequently English songs are played. Particularly rap songs. I have heard quite a few of my favorite rap songs played and memorized by many. Macklemore, Pitbull, and Eminem are a few, and Gerardo's little brother Gabriel even sings to Bob Marley with me!
• Money - Both countries make use of the US dollar, which extends to so many countries around the world that it has become the world's principal reserve currency (economics fun fact). However, in El Salvador, I don't recall having seen someone pay with a debit or credit card yet. Most people pay with physical dollars and coins. Additionally, I have seen a ton of $1 coins here in El Salvador, which was a pretty rare sight for me in the US. I'm trying to collect as many as I can; if the dollar crashes, I have more faith in the value of coins than paper.
• Police - In the US, cops only ever seem to be around when you are driving five miles over the speed limit...not that I have had any issues with them yet. In El Salvador though, they are everywhere. Literally, I encounter at least three or four just walking to the local track for a run. Furthermore, they are packing heat, strapping machine guns in broad daylight. It would be intimidating, but somehow, I doubt I have ever felt safer. On the other hand, I know that militaristic force was used against civilians during the Civil War in El Salvador, so I'm scared to try imagining the advantage the cops would have if history ever repeated itself...
• Ages of consent and drinking - Yup, I'm going there. In the US, the drinking age is 21 and the age of consent is 18. In El Salvador, the drinking age is 18 and the age of consent is 16. Why does this matter? Perhaps it does not; I have not and will not be in El Salvador long enough to get a true grasp of how this difference in legal acceptability affects people, but here's the blunt truth of what I know about the US: Sex and getting wasted are what high school students find cool. Would lowering the ages have a positive psychological effect on people or would it just make it worse?
• Goods and Services - I would say that many of the goods I have seen in El Salvador are more expensive than in the US, probably because many of these goods are imported from the US to begin with! Who would have imagined that? On the other hand, I have never seen such a cheap service industry! It's fantastic! Let's compare a few! These are the prices I have experienced, so don't have a hissy fit if what I am used to doesn't match what you are used to.

      Service                                                    United States                              El Salvador
Movie Theater (Night)                                    $9                                                $3
Haircut                                                          $12                                              $2.5
Dentist Cleaning (no insurance)                      $120                                            $10
Gym Membership (1 month)                           $25                                              $10

I know there are a ton of other services I'm forgetting about; medical expenses alone are all cheaper, so I will probably take full advantage of that while I'm here. Anyway, that's all I've got for today!

One.

July 14, Day 22: The Curse of World War Z & Fiesta Sorpresa

I have been so exasperated lately that I did not bother with a blog update, thinking that surely I was just being pessimistic. However, it would appear that my hunch was correct: World War Z is cursed. I don't consider myself very superstitious, but when car trouble arises three consecutive days in a row, preventing us from watching a movie about a zombie apocalypse, that is a bad sign in my book. I wasn't even particularly enthused about watching the movie; I've read the book (which was fantastic), but there is no way it should have been made into a movie because it is a fictitious collection of historical testaments about World War Z from many different characters of many different walks of life. There was no one character that could be the primary protagonist that Brad Pitt plays, meaning that they would have drastically altered the plot for the cinematic release. Regardless, I really want to see it now after three botched attempts. The first attempt was a group outing with Gerardo, Connie, Mario, Mario's brother, and myself. Tickets were sold out so we were going to wait until a later showing, but we ended up rescuing Connie's mother from the middle of Salvadorian traffic after her car broke down. That took about an hour and a half, and from there, we ate Chinese food and called it a night. The next day, Gerardo's car wouldn't start up (there weren't any problems until an hour before we were leaving). The day after that, despite having been repaired and successfully driven that day already, it once again did not start up when we were getting ready to leave. When I finally see World War Z, it had better be one hell of a movie...

Friday (July 12) was the last attempt we made to see the movie because yesterday, we went to a birthday party Connie and her mother had planned for Gerardo. Gerardo's actual birthday was a little while ago, but Connie was sick that day, no doubt due to the stress of finals, so it had been moved. On top of being my first international party, it was also the first surprise party I have ever been to and it was a blast. There were about twenty or thirty people at Connie's house, all friends to Gerardo, dancing and partying. I am by no means a good dancer, but even I cut loose on the floor with Gaby for about three hours. There was karaoke and food as well; Gerardo, Mr. Worldwide and I attempted "Temperature" by Sean Paul, but Gerardo was the only one that made a serious attempt at that. I think he probably holds a grudge against me for that...sorry, buddy!

It was really interesting mingling with the different people at the party. One of their friends is on the El Salvador football team (soccer for the US). He was a pretty quiet guy, but it was interesting to learn a "celebrity" was in the house. Several friends taught English lessons during the weekend to children living under poor circumstances. Even though the party itself was really informal, all of the guys were wearing pants and dress shirts and most of the girls were wearing dresses. Not at all different than a party in the States, except there were a lot more Spanish songs than "La Macarena."

And that's it! The failed World War Z attempts and Gerardo's surprise party were the only thing worth talking about from the last few days. Reading, working out, writing, and music have been the other activities occupying my time lately. I have also watched a few documentaries about the Crusades and F. Scott Fitzgerald in preparation for next semester. Pretty interesting stuff actually. If you are going to watch something to be entertained, documentaries are definitely the way to go. Hopefully things will kick up now that I'm down to my last month and four days here.

One.

July 9, Day 17: Homesick

For all of the good stuff I've experienced in El Salvador, I have to admit at this point that I am beginning to feel a little homesick. It is not homesick in the way that I would have expected though; while I miss my physical possessions and the people, there are some things I long for that surprise even me. So here it is: the top five things I currently miss the most about my life in the US.

5. Hot showers: Apparently cold water is good for your skin, keeps you looking youthful, etc. I wouldn't be surprised if that is true, and I've gotten used to it enough that I can tolerate the cold water pouring over me, but really, sometimes I just want a refreshing hot shower. First world problems...

4. Commitments: Sad as it is to say, I really need some sort of commitment in my life to keep me occupied. School, sports, a job, whatever it may be, I like it when something keeps me focused. That doesn't equate to me wanting to be tied down; I genuinely love traveling. However, I need a sense of purpose, and excluding blogging, my activity here has been all over the place. I would say it expands my views and is necessary, but I'd love to find something to do that is genuinely meaningful. Summers are a pretty purposeless time for me anyway, so that might not be because I'm in El Salvador, but still, it is easier to find something to commit to when you are familiar with the people, places, and general occupations of an area.

3. Locational knowledge: I love exploring new places, but without a phone, car, or GPS, I can only travel in the company of someone who knows the area. The gym is literally the only place I can walk to by myself; I don't know enough Spanish to successfully communicate my destination desires to a taxi or bus driver, and being alone in El Salvador is potentially hazardous for gringos and women.

2. Arby's: It is beyond tragic that Arby's made it to #2 on my list, but I've been craving it since the day I arrived. I practically lived on Arby's during the first month and a half of summer I spent in the States. The employees recognized me and knew what I wanted the instant I arrived. A Jamocha Shake. Mozzarella Sticks. A Reuben Sandwich. Unhealthy, I know. I pray to the sweet lord that my cravings will be gone by the time I am back in the States; if two months without it doesn't cure me of this food lust, I don't know what will.

1. English: I knew what I was getting into the moment I came here, but it only just now occurs to me how badly I miss English. I can still usually understand the intent of what is being spoken to me, but it is intolerable when I have to give choppy or single-worded responses. There have been many opportunities to bond with friendly strangers, in basketball, at Connie's university, etc. and the limits of my Spanish have essentially blocked each and every potential friendship. Even last night when I was hanging out with a girl I was interested in named Gaby, the fact that we were hanging out in Gerardo's home meant that she was free to pursue conversations with others in Spanish and I could only attempt to comprehend what they were saying, a mentally exhausting feat. That chance might have flown out the window...I've GOT to learn some damn Spanish.

One.

July 6, Day 14: Santa Ana

Today unexpectedly resulted in a trip to a province near Santa Ana, one of El Salvador's most populous cities and one that I had been eager to visit ever since I began learning more about El Salvador. Gerardo and I joined Connie and her family on a trip to visit an aquatic park, but we really didn't do anything in the park. We merely looked around and relaxed nearby. Connie told me that Santa Ana is also know as capital del cielo, or "The Heaven's Capital," and it was clear why. The entire place was gorgeous and as exotic as I have seen El Salvador. There were coconut trees, a small labyrinth comprised of grassy hedges and even a parrot whose favorite phrases included "hola!" and "que cuero!"

Since we didn't go to the aquatic park, we mainly just hung around with the other guests. A decent amount of people were invited to attend an event, and that event kicked off at lunch during 12:30 pm (despite what the invitation said, we didn't arrive 30 minutes after midnight). Regrettably, with my low level of Spanish, it was a bit of a jumble for me. What I was able to discern was that there were a couple of people who wanted to give testimonies involving their relationship with God and their fathers. Gerardo filled me in afterwards that the speakers were from a fraternity of Christian businessmen who wanted to connect their testimonies to Father's Day (despite that having passed several weeks ago). No doubt I would have thoroughly enjoyed it had I been able to understand everything due to my poor relationship with my father and the constant struggle I endure with my faith, but as I couldn't, I mostly preoccupied myself trapping the incredibly annoying bugs trying to eat me (and my food) alive. Afterwards, we just relaxed on hammocks for a few hours until we finally returned home.

One.

July 5, Day 13: Food Overview Pt. 1

Today for lunch, I had a truly amazing meal, and I decided immediately that even though this blog will cover many important aspects of my time here, it is definitely relevant to devote several posts to nothing but food. So here it is: my top five favorite foods that I have eaten in El Salvador (so far). Drumroll please!

5. Sopa de frijoles (Bean Soup): I hate beans in the States, but ever since I tried a pupusa offered to me by my friends Gerardo and Mario, I began to open my mind a little. When Gerardo's mother made bean soup, I was still somewhat skeptical, but I went ahead and tried it, and I am very glad I did. The soup combined with duro-blando queso (hard-soft cheese), portions of tortilla, and a little bit of salt created a utopia of flavor in my mouth. It was impossible to narrow down the taste, but the cheese stood out the most along with the various textures.

4. Platanos con leche de crema (Plantains with Milk Cream): Plantains are somewhat similar to bananas, though they have a unique texture to them. Boiled plantains, fried plantains, and even raw plantains have all made plantains one of my favorite fruits, despite having never tried it in the US. When Carla brought out milk cream for dinner one night and Gerardo advised me to try it, I discovered I was instantly in love. It is a very light and soft cream that tastes like milk but is also a bit sweeter, making a healthy snack on par with many delicious but unhealthy desserts.

3. Carne de cerdo con puré de papas (Pork with Mashed Potatoes): As someone who resides in the South, it is almost sad including this, but there is not getting around it; Gerardo's mom cooks up the best pork and mashed potatoes I have ever had in my life. The potatoes were extremely creamy, almost like a gravy, and the pork was so tender that it could be sliced up with merely a fork. It almost melted in my mouth, but most of it was meat, rather than fat. Needless to say, the parts that were fat were even tastier. This was my lunch today.

2. Pizza: As stated in a previous post, the best pizza I have ever had was at the restaurant "La Tarteleta" in San Miguel. I could taste every single ingredient: the thin crust, the perfectly melted cheese, the tomato sauce, and the raw tomatoes on top. It sounds largely like your average pizza, but it was so much more. I ate it on three different occasions during the four days we were in San Miguel.

1. Crêpe: Though more well-known in France, I tried my first crêpe at a mall in El Salvador shortly before going to the movies with Gerardo and Connie to watch The Great Gatsby. My sweet tooth was kicking in so I was going to buy an éclair, but Gerardo dragged me to a food stand called Crêpe Lovers. I had never tried one before and the pictures that looked like tortillas made me sure that it was going to be a typical Salvadorian food, but I was way off. The crêpe I had was sweet, rolled up and stuffed with slices of bananas and strawberries with a double layer of white and milk chocolate. Of all the desserts I have ever enjoyed, this one is definitely at the top of the list, and anyone who knows me can testify that I am a sugar junkie. There are different types of crêpes; apparently salty ones are more akin to a meal (Gerardo had his with cheese and ham), but the sweet ones are undoubtedly desserts.

That's it for this food post! I hope to experience more savory delights that I can discuss and ultimately compile at the end of my trip into a "The Best Foods of El Salvador" post. And by the way, today is Gerardo's birthday. Happy birthday, Gerardo!

One.

July 3, Day 11: The Little Things Pt. I

As El Salvador has been and will be my first extended stay in another country, I have time to really delve into the little things that most people don't really think about that divide their lifestyle and culture from those in the States.

• Mosquitos - They are everywhere, and they are hungry for gringo blood. I sprayed myself multiple times every day when I first came here and still got covered with bites. I never thought that even after a shower, it would be necessary to spray. By now, I've gotten so used to them that I don't even bother.
• Driving - I have already mentioned it in a previous post, but the driving here is completely different than anywhere I have been in the states. I could try to describe it, but you really have to be in El Salvador to fully understand just how different it is.
• Common knowledge - Some things that we see as common knowledge differ greatly. For example, two of my friends in college, one from the States and one from Guatemala, were arguing about continents. The American claimed there was a North and South America (as I myself had been educated in my youth) while the Guatemalan claimed there was a North, Central, and South America. The sense of common knowledge I had developed collapsed since no one in the States really knows which continent to identify Central America in, despite it not being its own continent. Just today, Connie described her hair as being brown while mine was blond, while I identified hers as black while mine is brown. Darkness and lightness seem to have a slightly different scheme here...or maybe I'm just in denial.

• Food - Salvadorians have a diet centered around corn. Economy and location play a heavy role in determining how the citizens of respective countries live. El Salvador is poor, generally speaking, but the produce and seafood are abundant and freshly harvested, meaning that many meals are healthier and thematic than in the US, one of the wealthier countries in the world with the trendy focus on convenience at the cost of quality. It is truly amazing for me to finally understand this; I didn't believe the quality was lacking because it was all I had ever known.
• Religion - In the States, though a majority of people would identify themselves as Christians, the US nonetheless opts to keep religion a fairly private matter, primarily an issue reserved for churches, youth groups, and private schools. Traces of religion are more evident in El Salvador; being a small country, much more of the country's history is steeped in it.
• Minorities - In the States, whites are undoubtedly the dominant race. In El Salvador, I am an extreme oddity as only about 12% of Salvadorians are white, but most of them are still native Spanish speakers. It is a very strange feeling, transitioning from the majority to the minority. At the moment, it hasn't resulted in any serious problems, and I am uncertain if I will be here long enough to really understand the difficulties presented to the minorities of the US, but I have had a taste of it. Little children stare at me, elderly women scowl at me, one man even yelled, "Ayy, gringo!" and flashed me a sideways thumbs-up. Apparently, that meant that he was not going to kill me. That was very sweet of him.
• School - The hours always seemed so simple in the States. Elementary school was approximately 8 - 3. Naturally, there are variations across the regions, but in general, it was the same. In El Salvador, schools seem to operate from 7 - 12:30 (for morning classes). Gerardo told me that those hours extended to 4 for juniors and seniors going to a private school, but for the most part, those hours apply to everyone. There is a need to squeeze in afternoon classes for students and/or parents who prefer later hours, and adults who were unable to receive an education as children are granted the ability to enroll in school as well.

That's all I can think of for now, but there are many more differences hidden under the surface. Differences a lot of people would probably rather not think about, including myself. Still, I will do my best to bring these differences to the light, if for no other reason than for my own personal enlightenment.

One.

July 1, Day 9: San Miguel and Playa el Cuco

 As it may have been rightly speculated due to the lapse of time since my last entry, I have been extremely busy as of late. Gerardo's dad, being the important man that he is, was asked to assist a hospital in San Miguel for a few days and he decided to take us along for the ride. It was conveniently located right across from our hotel, so he didn't even need to drive or take a bus to work!

According to Gerardo, San Miguel is the second largest city in El Salvador, surpassed only by the capital San Salvador. When I look around the web, it was identified as the third most populated city, directly behind Santa Ana. It was slightly more tame in San Miguel than in San Salvador, but still wild and crazy for someone accustomed to rural America. Fortunately, Ernesto didn't have to work for an exceedingly long time and we were able to make several enjoyable outings together.

The night that we arrived (June 28), we dropped our stuff in our hotel rooms and immediately went out to eat. The restaurant is called "La Tarteleta" (lit. "The Tart") and it has a surprisingly classy atmosphere. During a sequential trip, we would even see the mayor of San Miguel there! On Gabriel's suggestion, I ordered a Neapolitan marguerite pizza (and I pray I am not butchering the name of this amazing pizza). Pizza is one of my favorite foods. I have eaten pizza in Italy. I know what it should taste like. This was, THE most delicious pizza I have had to date, and you can quote me on that. Remember, if you are in El Salvador for some reason, try to visit "La Tartaleta" in San Miguel and order their pizza. It is right across from the hotel Villa de San Miguel and the sign on the building says Café & Bistro. You won't regret it. Their desserts are nothing to scoff at either...Here's a link with some information, including the address and phone number, if anyone decides to check it out one day. La Tartaleta

On June 29, after Ernesto got off work, we ate lunch at "La Tartaleta" (I couldn't resist getting the pizza again) and headed for Playa el Cuco. It was perhaps an hour away from our hotel and the first beach I have been to since Belice last summer (which had been my first time at a beach since I was a lil squirt). Waiting to go swimming was almost unbearable. I LOVE the ocean. Freshwater is only good for drinking; the sea is an absolute must for swimming in my opinion. In a less advanced time, I definitely would have been a sailor or fisherman. Surfing and swimming sounds more fun nowadays...

Lamentably, as El Salvador is closer to the equator, it is much more dangerous to be running around in nothing but shorts, even for a gringo lathered in sunscreen. Swimming would have to be pushed back for a few hours. Fortunately, those few hours passed by very quickly in the face of the delicious...err...second lunch (?) we had. They just went out and caught me a fish after I ordered. I'm an incredibly picky eater so I didn't really have high hopes when I agreed to join Gerardo for the summer, but the food in El Salvador has pleased me to no end. Delicious, cheaper, more natural, less saturated in grease. Why can't the US have food like this??

Gah, distracted thinking about food. Maybe that should have been the sole focus of this blog, but there are still many other things that I do not wish to forget about. After we ate, some time passed before we decided to go swimming anyway. I would still keep the sea waiting as Andrea and Gabriel were more eager to swim in Tropiclub's swimming pool. I can't say I blame them; the waterslide was bogus. It was undoubtedly a safety hazard when Gerardo and I were going down; our size granted us greater speed that nearly caused us to slide up and out of the slide on more than one occasion! Not to mention the bruised knees and elbows...worth it. We did that for a long time, taking pictures at Ernesto's request and circulating back around until Carla and Ernesto joined us in the pool. Then we spent another hour or so volleying a ball around until finally, it was time to swim in the sea.


I truly pity anyone that has never gone swimming in the sea before. This next bit might sound a little bit poetic, so feel free to skip over it if sentimental feelings make you nauseous. I won't blame you, but I feel obligated to myself not to forget how it feels; I had nearly forgotten for the decade and something odd years that I was away from one.

When you first know that you will be swimming in the ocean, your first reaction is to run your toes through the moist sand. To really experience it, however disgusting it may appear. As you look around, you realize with a hint of obvious delight that there are seashells, crabs, and all manner of crustaceous ocean life that has been brought to shore by the tide. You curiously begin to survey the area, ignoring the water for a moment to search for any treasures she may have brought in. Pocketing a few items of no monetary worth, you finally feel the tide brush against your feet. You wade in deeper until finally, a wave pushes you back slightly. Excited, you quickly trot further out until you are a little over waist-deep. At this point, the waves are potentially knocking you down. You crash into the waves head on, equalizing the balance that would otherwise be taken away from you. You fall back on them, allowing the waves to absorb the impact and even push you back up. You try to swim into them, only for the current to prove overwhelmingly superior. You try sitting in the water and get pleasantly pushed over each and every time, regardless of the wave's size. As the sun sets, it gets a little more dangerous and you know that you need to leave, but you can hardly fathom it, and that makes you want to leave even less. The waves, so powerful, so glorious...the most powerful being in the world is a mere ant to the might of nature that could only be justly attributed to a higher being that I define as YHWH.

Again, personal feelings that I don't wish to forget, so sorry if that was a little off topic. Swimming in the ocean is by far the main part of the trip that stands out in my mind, though it was by no means all that happened. June 30 was our final full day that we spent in San Miguel. We went shopping for clothes since I was currently limited. After picking out some nice clothes that I definitely would have a difficult time finding in Arkansas, we went to the movies. My first movie in Spanish without subtitles ended up being...Monsters University! Despite not having seen Monsters Inc. since it first came out, I was truly amazed how much of it I was able to understand. I understood the story completely and was even in on a few jokes, though I definitely missed my fair share. Regardless, it was awesome. I'm not cocky enough to believe that I can understand most of what people say in Spanish at this point, but I can honestly say that I am able to easily comprehend the "intent" of what is being said. It might sound insignificant, but it is vitally important to my growth. At least, that's what I believe.

After we left the mall, the trip wrapped up relatively peacefully. I went swimming at the hotel's pool for a little while after I played three games of chess with Ernesto. He's some kind of chess Jedi...I have never in my life had as much trouble with a player as I have had with him. That said, I was able to get one game down to nothing but our Kings and Pawns before he crowned a pawn, blocked off my remaining pawns, and pincer attacked my king into a corner with his king and queen. I'll beat him before I leave El Salvador...for sure!

Anyway, that's my story up until now. I had a great weekend with some great people and now I'm facing forward once again. I will try to ensure that updates are frequent, but no telling when the next adventure will sweep me off my feet.

One.